28th – 31st May

As Mags is back in her home town, everywhere we go we bump into people she knows and this started right at the beginning, when the harbour master awoke us from a deep sleep. A groggy Mags stuck her head through the cockpit – next thing I here is “Is that you Margaret”. We spent the next few days between Mags’ parent’s house and Issy’s. It was great see our dog Magoo, who is being very well looked after by Issy. We had a couple of matches of boules chez maison Campbell.

26th May

The Engineer had real problems removing the bit of the bolt from the alternator, he eventually drills it out in his workshop. But by the time it is back and fixed, we have missed the morning tide. A blow is expected on Monday, so if we want to get to Campbeltown before the windy weather, we need to leave sooner than later. But that means the evening tide, which is after dark. It was interesting coming in through the windy river in the day light in a flat calm– so a night exit would be very tricky and it was already windy F5 gusting 6 We went for a walk round the town to contemplate our decision: to stay till after the windy weather or head out on the night tide. Kirkcudbright is an attractive town, brightly coloured houses line the streets and in the centre is an old 16th Century fortified house. In just about every street there is a gallery or two – it is also known as the artists town through it’s connection to the “Glasgow Boys”, a group of Impressionist painters from 19th Century. We decide to “go for it”. Eileen, stayed for dinner and then we waited for the off. As it is tidal we can’t leave to 10:15pm. So we sit around waiting like the contemned man who has had his last meal. You always feel apprehensive prior to a big passage……navigating out of Kirkcudbright at night, then sailing round the Mull of Galloway, which has a fearsome reputation. It is the anticipating which is worse, you know you are leaving a nice secure berth and venturing out on a windy night. Why on earth do we do it, you ask? We set off, counting the flashing buoys as we pass them, all is going well until the light on the depth sounder stops working. A depth sounder is essential on shallow river, Mags grabs a torch and apart from 2 buoys that aren’t lit which gives us a heart stopping moment - as we narrowly miss one, we make it out safely. In the bay, we have 27 knots of wind so we need 3 reefs in the mail sail, we settle the boat on course and Mags heads off watch. We are sailing into the wind (typical), the tide changes and is now with us. The tide is now in the opposite direction to the wind ( known as wind over tide), this raises quite a sea, sharp steep waves which knock the boat back. By now we should be well on our way to the Mull, but our progress is painfully slow. It is becoming obvious that we won’t make it past the Mull before the tide changes. With spring tide against us we will be lucky not to go backwards. I start to question my decision to leave Kirkcudbright, I consider the options: we could go back to Kirkcudbright – but we would have to get back in time for the next high tide, go to Douglas on the Isle of Man – but that is going backwards, or solder on and accept for the next 6 hours we would be looking at the same view of the Mull. We decide on the latter, I head off watch and when I get up the view is still the same. But with the tide with the wind, the sea has calmed down considerably, so I cut inside close to the Mull to pick up a back eddy and we start going forward at last. But when we turned right to go up the North Channel – so did the wind – so we are sailing into it again. The next weather forecast is in and they are forecasting N5-7. We will be heading North bang into that wind, again we will make little progress. Portpatrick, a small fishing village, is an option except on a falling tide and a strong onshore wind, it is not a sensible one. Thankfully we make good progress up the North Channel with the tide and when we get to the top of the Mull, the northly wind has not set in yet so, we decide to make for Campbeltown. We still have 3 reefs and at 30 knots of wind, we are steaming along despite the tide being against us. We pass the Ailsa Craig (Paddy’s milestone) – a distinctive lump of rock, Mags is back in familiar waters and before long it is “Land Ahoy” – we spot the Mull of Kintrye. Mags does a rendition of “Campbeltown Loch, I wish you were Whiskey”- note the use of the verb here, as opposed to sang. It is not long before we pick up the light on Daavar Island, which guards the seaward end of the loch. By the time we pass the island, it is dark which is a shame as it would be quite an entrance and we would have sailed right past Mags’ parents’ house. By 2am, some 30 hours later, we are tied up safe and sound – getting here gives us a huge sense of achievement, we have seen some awesome scenery and we have had a great sail ….that’s why we do it.

25th May

We finally get out of bed – what luxury – a bed that doesn’t sway and clean sheets. We manage to turn Eileen’s house into a Chinese laundry as we wash every thing from oil skins to socks.We head off to the boat to tighten the alternator belt ( we really know how to have fun). But on closer inspection, we realise that the reason the belt has gone slack is that a bolt has sheered off. We are very lucky that we have discovered it before it causes any problems – ie no engine or worse still the engine seizes, as no water would get to the engine, to cool it down. Mags is sent off to speak to the natives – as she speaks the lingo, and duly returns with a new bolt. Now how difficult could it be to replace a bolt? Well after an hour, we realise we need help and Mags heads off and comes back with a very friendly engineer who then also has trouble removing the old bolt. So the alternator is removed from the engine and off he goes to try and remove it in his workshop. Leaving tomorrow is looking iffy, oh no we will have to spend another day with access to a bath – you can see we are heart broken.

24th May

We caught the afternoon tide out of Holyhead (hooray) and with a SW F5 it was a good wind to set us off on our journey north. The sea was quite rough still and all the more confused as it swept past the Skerries rocks, off Anglesey. By the time the sun set, we were sailing along the Isle of Man, but as we move further north the period of darkness is now only about 4 hours now. As the wind fell, the sea quietened – a relief to Mags who hadn’t felt too good at the start of the journey. We were off to Kirkcudbright SW Scotland, where my fathers side of the family come from. My great grandfather and his father before were Ships Captains from the Solway Firth. Also the name of our boat Ituna is the old name for the Solway Firth. My family actually come from Kippford, but as it is very tidal, the only deep water port on this coast is Kirkcudbright. It is quite tricky narrow entrance and you have to wind your way up the river with not much room to spare. Once tied up securely, we headed off with my Aunt for a night of being pampered. You really appreciate being able to lie in a bath, when you have had to use marina shower facilities. On this trip we have now perfected the skill of drying feet and getting shoes and socks on without touching the shower room floor.

23rd May

It is at this point in the trip, as I listen to the wind race through the rigging and I have to climb up hill to the galley and all when we are tied up to the pontoon, I wonder why on earth I bought the factor 30 sun cream. I am mighty glad we got heating fitted this year. Though we have had an annoying leak from the join between the exhaust and the bit that goes through the boat hull, and are getting about .5 litre weeping through each day at sea. So yet more time spent today in the cockpit locker, or inspecting the crew quarters as Ed and Paul would say. Still in Holyhead, we yomped over Holyhead Mountain to the lighthouse at South Stack. Just close by is a bird reserve and at this time of year you can glimpse the less spotter bird twitcher. A rare species that can be identified by their woolly hats, good stout walking shoes and if you are really lucky, you’ll spot the male of the species with a telescope and tripod stand with a little woolly cover for the said telescope. It was a good 5 hour walk – beats 30 mins in the gym. Got the weather at 5pm looks like we have one window tomorrow afternoon so we will do overnight passage to get to Kirkcudbright – then the winds are up to F7 again. Having insulted the bird watchers and Holyhead – probably best that we do go soon before we are asked to leave!

18th-22nd May

We have now been storm bound for nearly a week in Holyhead, as I write this I can hear the wind and the rain lashing the boat as another gale sweeps through the harbour. There is a hope that we will be moving tomorrow or Wednesday before we start growing roots here. Holyhead is not exactly picturesque, the Rough Guide to the UK describes Holyhead as: “In 1727 , Swift found it “scurvy, ill provided and comfortless” and little has changed since. Fortunately train and ferry timings are well integrated so you shouldn’t have to spend much time here” It also says “Holy Island is blessed with Anglesey’s best scenery and cursed with its most unattractive town.” So we decided to focus on its best bit and went to invigorating walk along the coastal path. Whilst very windy, it was a cracking day with clear blue sky and the scenery lived up to its name It has been quite good to catch up on the admin things: shopping, laundry – all of which take so much longer when walking/buses are involved. Mags chatted up the bus driver and he dropped us off very close to the marina, which is great as we have shopped as if we had a car to take up back. The bus is fully of elderly people who catch up with all the local gossip – either in welsh or English, you realise what an essential service public transport is – not just for the transport part! Also had our first post of the trip, always very exciting – thankfully all the bills have been sifted out and are being kept for our return – what fun that will be! Sunday: Bron, Edward, William and Alice came to visit for the day. It was great to see them and catch up. Sadly the wind blew and the rain fell, so sailing was out of the question. But we did some hunter/gather things: collected a bucketful of mussels along the sea shore and set the lobster pot.

Tuesday & Wednesday 16th 17th May

The sun had not risen but it was twilight when we raised the anchor. Neither of us had slept well, due to an uncomfortable swell that affected our anchorage, but we knew we would be in Fishguard by about 1 pm. Out past St Anne’s Head the sun was rising but with little wind, we were motoring. We went out between Grassholm and Skomer Islands – both bird sanctuaries and we manage to see a couple of puffins in the water – with their distinctive coloured hook beaks. We saw many razorbills frenetically flapping their wings as if they have had a night on speed. - though I am still convinced they look like penguins We were unable to take the take the inside track past the islands but as it was calm we were able to cut in close to the Bishops and Clerks, some rocky out crops that with the fast tidal streams produce overfalls and whirlpools. Going through was quite dramatic – it was if the sea was boiling but the tidal acceleration sped us quickly round St David’s Head, then onto Stumble head. We dropped anchor just off lower Fishguard, site of the filming of Dylan Thomas Under Milkwood, which is proudly displayed on a plaque. But as it was filmed in 1971 and they are still celebrating it, it gives you the impression that not much happens there. We needed some stores, so inflated the dinghy and went into town. As the name suggests lower Fishguard meant there was a higher one, and between the two was a steep hill to climb. Back on board Mags got some sleep and I pottered. I then got the long range forecast…..ugh. Whilst we had been expecting strong SW winds on Wednesday/ Thursday – the forecast had now been upgraded to storm force 9. Not fun in an anchorage. We had 2 options: ride out the storm at anchor then make for Holyhead after the storm had past or head to a safer harbour straight away. My heart just wanted an early night and to be tucked up in bed, it had been a tiring day with an early start and not much sleep. But my head knew that the most sensible option was to run for Holyhead and make it in before the storm. We had a quick bite to eat, then set sail. Ironically there was very little wind, and by 1am a thick fog descended. Mags got the fright of her life when 3 dolphins surfaced immediately in front of the boat. With the sudden breaking waves, she was expecting that we were about to hit something. But after a while realised it was school of 10 dolphins. One of the amazing things at night is phosphorescence, when plankton are moved by a boat they glow like green light sticks. So you could track the dolphins weaving under water at night – quite a sight. For the last hour of our trip to Holyhead, the wind started to blow and the heavens opened, an indication of what was to come. But safely tied up in harbour – albeit resembling drowned rats – we knew we had made the right decision. We could now listen to the howling wind and not have to worry whether the anchor was holding.

Monday 15th May

Spend most of the morning in the cockpit locker, no I hadn’t been banished there for any misdemeanour but needed to mend the bilge pump. Only to be rescued by Chris and Issy, a couple we had met and had over for drinks in Padstow. Issy had nearly ripped her finger off since we had seen her last, when her ring and finger had decided to stay put whilst the rest of her body went in another direction. A salutary reminder to us about not wearing rings on the boat, especially as this had occurred when the boat was tied up to the pontoon. Filled up with fuel and motored down the estuary to the anchorage – past all the big oil tankers that line most of route.

Sunday 14th May

Motored up to Neyland, a marina for showers and a washing machine!

Saturday 13th May

Another early start – 4am, Padstow was deserted except for the cacophony of birds doing there thing at dawn. Just at twilight we headed out, only this time with clear visibility we were able to see the dramatic Cornish coast that surrounds the river Camel entrance. Sails up and we were reaching and creaming along at 7.5 knots. There were dark menacing clouds and under each one the wind would increase and we would be pushed a bit faster in the direction of Wales. But about 12am the gloomy clouds passed and the sky brightened. The only problem was that the wind reduced and backed – which meant we now couldn’t lay the course we needed on one tack. Suddenly, 5 Dolphins joined us and played around the boat for over an hour – a real treat. Mags tried to emulate David Attenborough’s Blue planet – but got many pictures of empty sea where once there was a dolphin. Thanks goodness for digital cameras where you can delete the pictures. By the time we reached Milford Haven it was about 7pm, and we decided to anchor in Dale. A lovely bay – which on one side has the red sandstone cliffs of the Pembrokeshire coast and in the other direction Milford Haven refinery and port!

Friday 12th May

Admin day. Feeling very pleased have transferred over £600 that we made on ebay prior to leaving. It has paid for the electronic charts at least. Very concerned Mags is now making lists of things to sell on ebay when we get back. Amazing coincidenc - just bumped into two friends that we haven’t see for years, Phil and Fiona, and their children. They came back for a drink, it was Phil’s birthday and as a treat he had come down all the way from Hampshire to attend the Rick Stein’s cooking school – what a small world. It was great to catch up with them before they head off to Australia.

Thursday 11th May

Glorious hot sunny day. We assemble the bike – we have folding bikes and cycle the Camel trail which follows the valley. Initially along the river estuary then in land through the woods – which this time of year are a real treat with bluebells, wild garlic and wild orchids.

Wednesday 10th May

Alarm goes off it is 2:15am and I manage to drag myself out of bed. Mags is being ultra efficient and whirling round the boat making lunch, disconnecting shore power etc. I, on the another hand, am struggling to function at this hour. I make it on deck and notice that there is no sign of the lock keeper and the lock is still closed. Great I think, I can go back to bed and can blame the absent lock keeper for delaying our trip. But within seconds he sees me and asks if we are ready and he will open the lock gate – damn I thought that plan has failed. We make it out of the harbour at 3am and we were on our way. Planning this leg was quite tricky, there are 3 tidal gates ( ie times where the tide determines what you should do). One at the start – the lock opening, one at Lands End and a bar to get over at Padstow – most of which is sand when the tide is out. It was impossible to meet all three, so we will be pushing against the tide round Lands End. The early start is rewarded with the most spectacular sunrise – as a burning red ball creeps over the cliffs at Lands End. We round Longship light house, marking some rather unfriendly rocks and we start to head North for the first time this trip. The main sail is there as a steadying sail, as there is always the Atlantic swell even on a calm day. We carry on motoring and I go off watch – we tend to sleep 3hr on, 3 off on long trips. Up on deck the fog has come in and visibility is down to between .5 and 1 mile. So Mags gets all the toys on: Radar etc starts tracking any targets. She likes the gadgets bit and we did buy a few at the last boat show – but they earn their keep – the new radar can tell us which way the target is moving and its speed. So they make entering Padstow less stressful, than if we had been navigating without the toys. Tie up at Padstow – quaint little harbour which has been made famous by Rick Stein or Padstein and it is now known. Due the numerous stein establishments here.

Tuesday 9th May

Relaxing day as we have a 2am start tomorrow.

Monday 8th May

After our very relaxing few days, it was back to reality with a 5:30 start to catch the tide and to miss the worst of the weather. NE F4 – we had a nice reach going round the Lizard (mainland Britain’s most southerly point) – but had to tack into Mounts Bay. Rule no 2 of sailing – the wind is always coming from where you are going to. The northerly element to the wind meant that it was quite cold – but despite big black clouds dumping much rain on the surrounding areas, we were fortunate to miss it. We were sailing in the centre of a low – but winds were relatively light. After 7 hours we were glad to be in a harbour. We started off at Newlyn but it couldn’t take any yachts – so thankfully Penzance is close by – so we tied up in the old fishing harbour which is enclosed by lock gates. Sailed 40 miles.

Sunday 7th May

Leisurely sail over to the Helford passage which is a beautiful spot on our coastline. Picked up Sue, Neil and Sally for an evening cruise – well more like a drift. Followed by dinner and much hilarity. 13 miles sailed.

Saturday 6th May

Falmouth is one of our favourite towns, full of art shops and lots of cool shops……but a bronze statue was not going to fit easily into the boat. Though when last visiting Falmouth by boat, we did buy a 4ft x2ft picture. We met Sue Hatton for tea and a gossip then she whisked us off to their amazing house that over looks Polwheveral creek. – Yummy lunch with no sign of a corn beef sandwich ( our lunch diet for the last few days), more gossip, then took then dogs out for a walk through the bluebell woods. V picturesque. Met Sue’s brother and sister in law ( Neil and Sally) at their new house, had the official tour - v grand and then back to the boat with Sue – had special guest on board Sue’s 90 yr old father Freddie who negotiated getting onto the boat and back up the 1:1 slope of the marina bridge. 0 miles sailed but very relaxing day.

Friday 5th May

Today started without any sign of wind (the weather variety), so the engine was going to be much in use today. We left the cliffs of Start Point behind us and crossed the bay towards Falmouth. About 2pm, the wind filled in and we were rewarded with a great sail, blue sky as we chomped through the miles. St Anthony’s head came into view with its striking lighthouse and the river fal opened up before us in the evening light. We picked up a buoy – yes an unusual skill for us. Now we are sitting with an evening drink, enjoying the last of the days sun. Just picked up the latest weather fax ( weather map) not looking too good tomorrow – a cold front coming through – which means wind and rain. A shore day I think.

Thursday

Thunder storms were forecast and being in a boat with a big metal mast is not the best of ideas, but looking at the sky there was no sign of them. Blue cloudless sky, so we decided to make the short 3 hour hop to Salcombe. With wind from the East, we had a run to Start Point. The visibility was not brilliant, and Start point light house was barely visible. We made it over the bar – and picked up a buoy in the tranquil Salcombe. Currently enjoying a beer looking out over our own private beach. Another hard day in the office. 16 miles covered

Wednesday

We awoke to a glorious morning, blue sky but at the harbour entrance there was a mist rolling in off the sea. Classic advection fog, when the warm moist air hits the cold sea – the mists forms. It was really bizarre, like smoke hanging in the air in a horror film, creeping up through the entrance - see the photo. We wouldn’t be going anywhere today. Maybe some retail therapy without any money was in order ….window shopping. Dartmouth is a very old town with a strong naval history – full of quaint old buildings.

2nd May

Getting up at 1:30 a.m. – we discover what we have forgotten – thermal bottoms – vv essential. Motor through the Needles with 5 knots of tide – facing masses of lights warning of the dangers we are passing, flashing like an orchestra out of tune with every one flashing to a different beat. Sails up, a southerly F3 and we are able to lay Portland Bill in one tack. Cracking sail grommet. Still getting sealegs – so time below doing things is kept to a min. So didn’t eat much – not too clever, we must remember to prepare some food in advance. Decided on Dartmouth as S F6 forecast and that wouldn’t be clever with the bar – not the drinking kind – but the hard sandy version. Had a bit of scare with engine off Dartmouth, no water getting through – as water cooled , it will quickly overheat without it. Cleared blockage and it is OK. Dartmouth is a great port to enter. Imposing cliffs and two 15th century castles guard the entrance. Once inside, the valley opens up and is dominated by the Naval College. Tied up at 6 p.m. – quite tired, but it made the hot shower seem fantastic! Total : 85 miles sailed.

1st May

Awoke bright and early , still things to do – fill up water, fuel, route planning, rushing round Gosport picking up last minute things, checking the weather – windy and coming from the direction we need to go in….rule number one of the sea. Anyway, we have finally made it to the start line, everything is on the boat and ready. Elaine comes to see us off, which is great, we have a quick knatter whilst doing things. At 12:30 we cast off – bang on time – which a week ago seemed a physical impossibility. We can’t believe it is real, that we are not just going out for a weekend sail. Great views of Victory – our national hero’s flagship (Paul that one is for you...) and we sail past the spinnaker tower. A stunning tower, which Portsmouth council had the foresight and courage to build despite the cost cutting which is endemic in politics. Originally called the millennium tower, but as it was 5 years late, it was renamed, it even managed to miss all the Trafalgar celebrations last year. We sail through Portsmouth harbour entrance – with a real feeling we are really off! We made it a total of 11 miles to Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight. Ready to catch the 2 a.m. tide. Total : 11 miles sailed.

30th April

The last few days have been manic, stores to buy and pack on the boat, things to do on the things-to-do lists. For those who have done Myers Biggs tests – we are both Js – so we have had lists of lists! Maggie and Paul came down to see us and we had a great evening out, both are natural raconteurs and had us in fits of laugher. Reefer the dog joins the crew, a mascot given to us by Maggie and Paul. Back to the boat for the last mountain of kit to pack away – surely we can’t have forgotten anything (more on that later).

24th April

The date and time of departure are now set for Monday 1st May at about midday, and with just over a week before departure, panic has set in. There is still so much to do and so little time – updating of charts, packing clothes, getting all of the supplies for the boat, etc. The lists seem to have grown despite Mags’s best efforts at reducing them. The house has developed piles – piles of clothes, piles of food, piles of equipment, etc. So far Mags has not missed work and she is being kept gainfully employed getting the boat ready. We have managed to take the boat out over the last two weekends with short trips to Chichester, Cowes and Yarmouth. This has allowed us to try out the cruising chute – for the non-yachties the big brightly coloured sail at the front – and make sure that things are working. There was a minor panic when the log did not read – an instrument for determining boat speed and distance travelled – however, turning it the wrong way freed it, the nautical equivalent of a big hammer.

24th April

For the little people we have a mascot, courtesy of Sam’s mother – Dotty the sheep. We will post notes and photos as Dotty progresses round the coast. She can enjoy sights of the different parts of Britain alongside sampling the grass as we progress. Hopefully the grass will keep Dotty happy and enjoying a stress free life.