Friday 30th June

The mobile peeps and it means it is time to get up – but the bed is lovely and warm and it is raining outside. It is 7am but it doesn’t feel like we have slept much – with the light evenings we have rarely made it to bed before 11:30pm, as it is so difficult to judge the time. It is so tempting to turn over and go back to sleep, but if we are to make the tidal gate we need to leave by 8.30 am. Head wins and I crawl out of bed. There were 5 yachts in Pierowall last night and 2 were supposed to have left at 5 am this morning for Fair Isle – but they are still there –clearly their hearts won and they stayed in bed a little longer. The friendly Norwegians from “Sillar Lass” come and bid farewell and are real salesmen for the Norwegian coast – sounds very appealing, we exchange details. Tom, the friendly harbour master comes to say goodbye and we set off in the rain, which is a shame, as it doesn’t do the scenery justice. We pass Papa Westray – with a lovely beach to the south, it would have been a possible anchorage but the wind was in the wrong direction. We enter Calf Sound – a narrow sound with each side being geologically different. Red Head on our starboard – being sandstone and Grey Head on our port ….. couldn’t tell you what it was but it is grey and has impressive arches – but it is completely different. Pick up a buoy off Eday in Calf sound in a bay by Carrick House – where an infamous pirate John Gow was caught – reassuring that it is no longer a problem here as this all happened in 1725. It is a drecht day (Scots for a very grey with drizzle) – in such weather we have no appetite for blowing up the dinghy as it is quite windy and still raining - so the shore seems a long way away in a rubber dinghy. We potter for the rest of the day. By evening the wind drops to zero and the Sound is serene in its beauty – a seal watches us very close to the boat.

Thursday 29th June

Admin day today then cycled out to Grobust beach for lunch. Had a wee (or peedie as they say in the Orkneys) bottle of champagne to celebrate our most northerly port.

Wednesday 28th June

Pierowall has an amazing beach in the bay – the clarity of the water and the white sand make it picture postcard perfect. Blue sky and we cycle round the island – it is an amazingly beautiful island - Grobust beach – I have run out of adjectives to describe it – the crystal clear waves pound the white sandy beach. The spray is whipped off the top of the crests of the waves as they start to break. We pedal down to the other end of the island and visit a live archaeological dig of an iron age burial tomb – we meet them on a sunny day – they must be very dedicated to be out there in all weathers. There is a seal colony near by and I go to take some pictures but give up as I get mobbed by an artic turn. Back to the boat and we tuck into fish and chips and the fish was swimming that morning.

Tuesday 27th June

With weed now growing on the bottom of the hull, it was a sure sign that it was time to move on. To catch the end of the ebb we bid a farewell to Stromness at 5am, but had to motor as there is no wind. Out through Hoy Sound with its dramatic landscape, we have the tide with us as we parallel the coast. We are making good time and I decide to go down below to take a nap but within minutes I feel the boat dramatically change course and Mags calls me up on deck. To my horror we are towing a fisherman’s buoy. These mark lobster pots and although Mags had steered well clear of it, there was a length of floating rope, which is impossible to see. It then wraps itself around the prop and can quickly render the engine useless. Luckily we manage to stop the engine before the rope does that. But it means that we can’t use the engine and there is not enough wind to sail. We are about 2 miles off a rocky coast with an onshore wind – but we are very lucky it is very light – so we drift in the tide. Leaning over I can see that we will not get it off by pulling, so I cut lose the pot but that leaves the rope still wrapped round the propellor. We have 2 options – call for a rescue – as we can’t sail out of danger or get into the water and cut of the rope. We have a wetsuit for exactly these kind of emergencies. Mags dons the wetsuit and I tie her onto the boat. The water is extremely cold and it takes Mags about 5 minutes to get control of her breathing. Thankfully the water is crystal clear so it makes cutting the rope easier. It was a great relief when both Mags and the rope were back on the boat. We get on our way and fortunately have no permanent damage to engine. Westray comes into sight and we pass Noup Head our most northerly point on the trip. Through Papa Sound, which is very benign – despite the almanac’s description. On arrival at Pierowall and we are greeted by a very friendly harbour master, Tom Rendall. My grandmother had a very good friend who lived on Westray – Mina. As it is a small island I ask Tom if he knows her. Sadly her funeral was on the island 10 days ago. …so close. We have seen many puffins at sea, but if they see a camera, they dive below the surface. Westray is the best place to see these beguiling little birds. We set off on a “puffin tour” in the evening and see them roosting – they appear to have no fear of us and they come within 3-4 feet of us………quite remarkable. They are hysterical when they land – a pretty dodgy affair not helped by their big webbed orange feet that are as aerodynamic as blocks of concrete – they flap frantically as they lower their undercarriage and then crash land. What a day….

Friday 23rd - Monday 26th June

We hire a car which allows us to explore the wonderful island of mainland Orkney. Originally called Pamona, the Norse for bountiful – very appropriate – the island is covered with vivid green grass fields and full of sheep and cows. The wildlife is in abundance : curlews, oyster catchers, plovers to name but a few. The colours here are so clear and there is always contrast between sky/sea and land/sea and land/sky. The culture stretches from Neolithic times: 5000BC village of Skara brae, Ring of Brodgar, Standing stones of Stenness, Broch of Gurness through to the music festival – an island very much looking to the future. There are little gems like the nissan hut that was lovingly turned into a chapel by Italian POWs. We went to an evening of storytelling – which covered the legend of the forming of Iceland, Orkneys, Shetland and Norway right through to the cultural traditions and dances of the 18th century…with audience participation. Saw the tidal race at Eyenhallow and the standing waves on a day with little wind - very impressive (coded language for very scary). We also went to Maeshowe which is a chambered burial tomb – it is impressive in size – but it was discovered by the Vikings , who left their mark in the form of graffiti. The revealing part is that human nature doesn’t appear to have changed – it wouldn’t be out of place on a school loo door with the equivalent of “Eric the Viking wos here”.

Thursday 22nd June

More boat admin today – changing fuel filters etc. Then met Sally ( from Lora Mhor) and Jill for dinner. Lovely evening then we had cheese and wine back at the boat. Sorry to see them go – we have had a couple of really enjoyable evenings with them.

Wednesday 21st June

A bus followed by a ferry ride and we were on Hoy on a very windy day to visit the island and the museum at Lyness. The museum filled in the gaps in our knowledge about the events in Scapa Flow – the scuttling of the German fleet at the end of WW1. We were intending walking on Hoy – but the strong winds and rain made lunch in Kirkwall far more appealing. Met Richard Shrearer who is writing a book about my grandfather and others on the war memorial. He has a remarkable memory and fills in a bit more about my grandparent’s life in Kirkwall, including the fact that my great grandfather used to give sermons in the cathedral when visiting. The cathedral has a very intimate feeling, as a result of the warm colour of the sandstone and it is relatively small. It was here that we heard the whistlebinkies, as part of the music festival – a folk group with a classical bent. At the concert we met Sally from Lora Mhor, and then went for a meal with the rest of the crew.

Tuesday 20th June

Admin day today, followed by an invigorating walk along the coast – cracking views of Hoy Sound with a tide race that looked more akin to a fast flowing river. As it was low tide, the seals were out in force, some basking on the rocks – others just looking at you from the water. Dinner at Willie and Jean’s, really enjoyable evening – they are great company.

Monday 19th June

We have arrived in the middle of the Orkney music festival, so head off early into Kirkwall, to see if we can get any tickets. Most is fully booked, but we get tickets for the Whistlebinkies – a traditional folk group, who will be playing in the cathedral. Kirkwall is where my father spent some of his early childhood, so we find the family home in Dundas Cresent and we pay our respects at the war memorial, on which my Grandfather’s name is commemorated on, having been killed in a Japanese prisoner of war camp. Kirkwall is surprisingly large, with a network of narrow streets centred around St Magnus’ Cathedral. Some excellent shops selling Orcadian crafts….buy some yummy cheese – some of the best I have ever tasted. Back at the boat, we invite on board some locals - Willie and Jean – who have just bought a Rival 36 - similar ours. Willie used to captain the lighthouse vessel , which visits all the lights and lighthouses in Scotland. They are very easy to chat to and we have an enjoyable evening and they have kindly invited us back to their house for dinner tomorrow.

Sunday 18th June

A lie in is always valued on a boat – no tides to catch – hooray. So we get up when the marina chap knocks on the cabin roof. Mags manages a very compos mentis conversation, considering she is still half a sleep and comes back with arm full of booklets about Orkney and what to see. They are very well set up here – a great little marina. The days starts off well, as I listen to the omnibus of the Archers (a soap on the radio) – how sad am I? Stromness is a charming town based on the edge of the great natural harbour of Scapa flow, which has benefited over the centuries from many booms – foreign fleets of Spanish and French avoiding the channel, herring, Hudson Bay Company, Arctic exploration and whaling. The narrow streets are paved with great flagstones and all the waterfront houses have their own piers – originally their owners would trade with the visiting ships. Kinlochbervie and Loch Inver had the feeling of towns on the edge of survival but here it is vibrant community, very much going forward. For example, the marina has been set up by a group of locals as a way of attracting yotties – realising that fishing industry is dying. A lesson that other west coast ports could learn from.

Saturday 17th June

Up early and the weather looks pretty much like yesterday, except we have an additional feature – it is raining. As we leave the loch, there is a big swell from the Atlantic. We follow Lorna Mhor out – but with visibility down to a mile, we lose them – but watch their blip on the radar. Thankfully the visibility improves enough to be able to see Cape Wrath – the top left hand corner of Scotland. I am quite sad to be leaving the cruising grounds of the west coast of Scotland, it is stunningly beautiful – and there is so much that we haven’t had the time to visit. Sailing in the Solent, when we return home, is going to seem rather tame, maybe we should base the boat here for a couple of years? Cape Wrath is a notorious headland, it is at this point a north going tide meets an east going tide – hence you have to hit it at slack water. But even so it is quite rough. We set a course for Stromness and dodge a couple of cargo vessels, the wind gets up, with gusts up to F7 – slightly more than the F3/4 forecast. The wind goes as quickly as it came – and we drift along slowly, in the rain. But we are treated to many visits from dolphins, playing -doing acrobatics, ducking and diving around the boat. It is amazing how these mammals can lift the spirits and make you squeak with excitement – just like a kid at Christmas. We are not keen to get to Stromness quickly, as we have to hit the tide at the right time, the Orkney tides are the strongest in the UK – so it means waiting until the late evening tide. We pass the old Man of Hoy – another famous rock pillar that is draped in fog. We get in late at about 11:30 – but as we are so far north, it is still light.

Friday 16th June

I look out of the hatch and it is a real gloomy day, visibility is about 1 mile as a result of the grey mist and fog which is hanging around. As we leave Loch Inver, the very recognisable dome shape of mount Sulivan is hidden. In order that we see some of the scenery, we hug the coast and vaguely see The Old man of Stoer, a rock pillar – but it is not a day for stunning photos. In fact it is real drippy nose weather due to the constant mist. We get out the jib but after 2 hours of going very slowly, we decide to put the engine on and get into port. By now visibility is down to about 0.5 mile but we are able to navigate thanks to the radar, which picks up clearly every nook and cranny of the coast line. In addition we have the reassurance of the chart plotter, which is just as well as Loch Inchard is a very narrow, deep entrance and the breaking waves in fog certainly gets the heart racing. The scenery is surreal – almost alien. It is astonishingly bare, stony coastline and as you creep into the loch you can’t believe anyone lives here. A narrow entrance off the loch leads into the harbour, which is Britain’s 3rd largest fishing port – based on the volume of fish. But the place is deserted – not sure if this is an indication of the state of our fishing industry – or they are all at sea. I later discover it is the former. We manage to get a shower in the Fisherman’s Mission – excellent facility – they keep it open especially for us and are very friendly – as normally it closes at 2pm – and then the rest of the town closes at 3pm on a friday. We are joined by Lorna Mhor, a boat that was next to us in Loch Inver – so we invite Dick and Sally onboard for drinks – a few bottles later we consolidate our 2 meals and have a big slap up meal together. Very enjoyable company.

Thursday 15th June

Yesterday was shorts – today in full oilskins, gloves and hats – the Scottish summer. We are nearing the top of Scotland – and have headed into the territory that is classed as “here be dragons” on the chart, there is quite a feeling of being alone. There is miles of uninhabited countryside – 180 degree panorama see hundreds of peaks (or munros in native speak). The light is amazing – despite it being a grotty day, the distant mountains appear blue and the sky looks like a grey cake mix that has been stirred and has swirls everywhere – very weird. With a SW F4, so a sea on the starboard quarter ( back quarter) which gives quite an uncomfortable motion. We pass the anthrax island ( used as antrax testing in 1940) both of us could actually land there – having been in the first gulf war and having had anthrax injections ( as well as plague) – but we give it a miss and head into Loch Inver – a fishing village and not much else. Sailing is a great way to meet people and Mike invites us onboard for a drink – very pleasant evening.

Wednesday 14th June

Set off at a civilised time (8.30) and pass under the controversial bridge to Skye. Despite the gloomy forecast, it is actually a lovely warm day and we break out the shorts. We head northwards along the inner sound and on the way see dolphin, puffin ( who manage to evide mags’500 attempts to capture them on camera) and seals. It is about F2 and we break out the cruising chute – the brightly coloured sail and glide along at a gentle pace down the length of Skye. We arrive early in Loch Gairloch, which allows us time to explore the area and we walk up to the local waterfalls. We decide to treat ourselves and go to the local pub for a meal – another excellent day.

Tuesday 13th June

Went into the harbour and came alongside – to get a long needed shower, catch up with the washing done and visit the last supermarket we will see for a while.

Monday 12th June

Got up early again and the weather forecast was worse than yesterday’s but tomorrow’s is just as bad. So decide to go for it as at least the wind is not up yet and it makes the entrance easier. Big black ominous clouds are all around, the forecast is gale force 8 but at least it is SE which means it is a broad reach – with the wind behind us it doesn’t appear so windy. We leave Arisaig in time to get over the bar but we need to go slowly to hit the other tidal gate at the right time. We have a scrap of jib out but we are steaming along at 6 knots. It is obvious we will arrive too early. We are heading up the Sound of Sleat and at the end are some narrows called Kylerhea. It is spring tides (big ones) at the moment and the tide runs through at 8 knots – so we don’t want to arrive early – strong wind over strong tide would provide very nasty seas. So we stop off for a cup of tea at Mallaig – which is clearly a fishing port judging by the smell. We sail down the Sound passing amazing remote Lochs: Nevis and Hourn. The area has been used for filming for “Local Hero”, “Highlander” and was the location where Gavin Maxwell based “Ring of Bright Water”. Spot a puffin and pass a colony of seals basking on the rocks. The Kylerhea takes some concentration, as it is gusting 35 knots over the deck and the narrows have eddies. Pick up a buoy outside Kyleakin and pass a very wind evening and night.

Sunday 11th June

Got up early today with the intention of leaving but after the weather forecast decided bed was far more appealing. Today would be a planning day – reading all the pilot books to decide where to go for the trip up to the top left corner of Scotland (Cape Wrath). One of the hard things in the trip is deciding the places not to visit, as this coastline provides an abundance of stunning anchorages.

Saturday 10th June

Lazy day – went for a 2 hour walk along the coast. It is quite windy today, but it is a very warm wind – as if it was a mistral wind from the SW of France – how lucky are we!

Friday 9th June

Top up with fuel, as this is likely to be the last fuel stop for a while. Set off out of Tobermory, but notice that the rev counter is going haywire. So head back in and pick up a buoy again and check it out – the alternator seems fine. So head on back out and it seems to settle down. 20 knots of wind and we are cruising at 7 knots down wind, which is great, as we make up the lost time from earlier today. We round Ardnamurchan point – UK mainland’s most westerly point - it is blue sky and a good wind, we are incredibly lucky. Arisaig has a difficult entrance – very rocky outcrops and a winding route through – “not for the faint hearted” as the pilot book says. There are brilliant white beaches between the rocks surrounded by turquoise pools of water. We successful navigate our way in under engine and are feeling very pleased with ourselves when a boat sails out – nothing like making us feel like amateurs! Dinner in the cockpit – another amazing day.

Thursday 8th June

We are now in costa del sunshine here on the west coast – we can’t believe our luck – 3 days in shorts. We peruse the shops along the harbour and treat ourselves to lunch. Dinner in the cockpit – too far out for those little buggers with their fangs to get us - another hard day in the office.

Wednesday 7th June

A busy morning making use of the on shore facilities - so boat, clothes and we are washed and now squeaky clean. We depart just after lunch and leave Oban and its Cal Mac ferries - it seems to have more ferries than the Solent. A good 18 knot wind across the beam and we are speeding across to Mull. At the entrance to the Sound of Mull is an area of overalls – troubled water as the water has to cope with a change of depth from 100m to 20m – so the water boils. I imagine it is quite uncomfortable in a rougher sea. But we are lucky, the sea is benign today. The wind dies – always a sign it is about to change direction and sure enough it does and fills in from the direction we are going in – typical! “Just look at the scenery”, I say to Mags and she replies “in which direction?” It is true, in any direction you look there is dramatic mountainous scenery. We beat up the Sound past Duart Castle, home of the Clan Macleans but as the evening draws in the wind dies and we are forced eventually to motor for the last hour or so. We pick up a buoy in Tobermory – well known for its multi coloured houses. Also made famous by the BBC Children’s TV programme Balamory – with nieces and nephews we have listened many times to “What’s the story in Balamory, wouldn’t you like to know” – our reply in the words of Cathy Tate – “am I bov’ered.”

Tuesday 6th June

Mags is up early and off for a run, then on the way back hauls up the lobster pot that we set the night before….we have caught 6 crabs. Unfortunately they are all too small, so no seafood platter for us tonight and we chuck them back in. We are never alone in this anchorage as boats go, more come in – it is very popular. With the genoa up we gently glide along at 3 knots up the Sound of Kerrera – Mags is now in hunter/gatherer mode and gets out the fishing line – but no mackerel take the bait. We reach Kerrera – after a massive 6 mile sail, and tie up in a marina opposite Oban. This means we can catch up on admin things: showers, water, laundry and shopping – and we head over to Oban to the Tesco’s on the marina launch.

Monday 5th June

Up with the birds and ready to leave at 5 am to catch the tide. We were due to take a tricky passage called Cuan Sound with the rocks about 150m apart with strong tides running through them – but the fog makes that passage dangerous. Instead, we opt for the safer Luing Sound. Visibility starts off at about 1.5 miles but we head into a fog patch and visibility is soon down to .25mile – not much fun. So we cut back the revs and crawl along, plotting our position every 10mins and Mags is glued to the radar, which gives a very clear picture. We make it into the anchorage Puilladobhrain – Pool of the otter, though the yotties I suspect have long since scared off any otters. By lunch time the fog lifts, revealing an anchorage which lives up to the recommendation in the pilot books. It is a pool surrounded by low islands which allows you to look out over the sound across to Mull…it even inspires me to get out my watercolours. Sunset is beautiful – a relaxing day and even managed to break out the shorts and eat dinner in the cockpit without the midges.

Sunday 4th June

Lazy start to the day – finally get going down the canal at midday. The skinny canal get skinnier with it only being 2 boat widths in some places. Thankfully the one boat we meet coming the other way is in a turning pool. The Crinan end of the canal is cute - miniature little black and white cottages, the lock basin contains the Vital Spark – an old Glasgow puffer of Para Handy fame – though it has seen better days. We meet Mags parents who make the 2 hour drive up to take us to lunch – very much appreciated. About 4pm we leave the sea lock behind us and all the very friendly lock staff and head out to an anchorage up the Sound of Shuna. It as if someone got the grey water colour out of the paint box today and coloured in the sky - the mist is hanging in the air– visibility is down to about 1.5 miles.

Saturday 3rd June

We need to be at the canal for 10:30am – so we are up early. It is a fine day – with blue sky and as we leave Tarbert a lone Dolphin meets us at the entrance, we see him 3 times then he is off. There is little wind, so we motor up to Ardrishaig – and I even have to break out the sun tan lotion! We enter the first sealock and meet Hugh who is going to help us through the 13 locks that are operated by boat crews. With only 2 of us onboard, we don’t have enough hands to tie off ropes and open and close lock gates. In the first sea lock the rise of water is about 4 or 5 metres and as they open the gates, the water comes crashing in. Paperwork sorted and we are off. Hugh is a star and has all the locks open for us in advance. The canal would be very hard work without him, but instead we can pottle along admiring the scenery - £40 well spent. The step change between the locks is quite impressive – the total rise is 68ft, quite a feat of engineering for its time. It was built in 1703, it is about 9 miles long and very skinny – some places are only about 3 boat widths. Our only drama is a manover board of a fender – so I have to reverse to pick it up – always a challenge in this boat. We moor near Bellanoch Bridge – an extremely well tended bridge with a wee house containing a shower and loo – it would put most marina facilities to shame. We have a spectacular view across the River Add, the Moine Mhor Nature Reserve to some hills in mid Argyll. We arrive early – break out the shorts (yes it is finally hot enough) and get the hammock out. We are just contemplating dinner in the cockpit, then they arrive in their droves– THE MIDGES. So we try to hermetically seal ourselves in the boat and deploy the weapons of mass destruction – jungle juice….. Scotland with good weather and no midges - it would be crowded.

Thursday 1st June

Just before leaving, Hugh ( Mags brother) turns up with some coconut and cherry cake which he has baked for us! We sailed out of Cambeltown Loch, with a F5 and Gordon ( Mags’ father) set up with a telephoto lens to capture the moment. Quite cool sailing past Mags’ parent’s house. Issy is with us for the short sail up to Carradale where she lives. I am sitting in the cockpit typing this, but I really wish you could see the view. You look in any direction and it is breathtaking. We are anchored in Torrisdale Bay, a 2 hour sail from Campbeltown. The bay is edged with deserted white sands and we are over looked by Torrisdale Castle. The bay is surrounded by hills that are a patchwork of different greens interspersed with purple and yellow from the rhododendrons and the gorse. We our sheltered on 3 sides by the bay but behind us just across Kilbrannan Sound lies Aran – a mountainous island. I know that my description doesn’t really do it justice. We are going to blow up the dinghy and go ashore to meet Mags’ parents for a BBQ. Nivana you might think…. The only part of the picture I am not adding is that there are big ominous black clouds and thermals will be needed to prevent hypothermia… The BBQ was a success – we tried out the new cobb bbq – highly recommended – we got it lit easily and it cooked sausages and beef burgers with very little effort. The wind started to drop then the army of midges ( no see ems) that had been sharpening their fangs in the wings, came out in force. So we say goodbye to all and Magoo ( sniff, sniff) and head off in the dinghy. Friday 2nd June Steamed up Kilbrannan Sound at 7 plus knots thanks to a westerly wind on the beam. Aran – known as Scotland in miniature, due to the mountains and glens, sees us leaving the sound and then we are into Loch Fyne. It is a great sail and guess what the sun has come out……a first. We sail along the wooded peninsula of Kintyre until the mouth of Tarbert opens up at the last moment. This is were Mags was born – we sail past the said house and the moment is captured on film. The harbour is a perfect shelter and the entrance is not obvious. We fill up with fuel – and receive the ultimate compliment from the local fisherman for a neat bit of parking…..and yes Mags went to school with the fisherman that helps us get fuel. Tied up and we tuck into fresh clams that Mags’ mother gave us….very tasty. What a cracking day.