Tuesday 22nd Aug

Left Dover with the most spectacular sunrise over the white cliffs –it makes getting up at 4:30 seem worth it. With a NW F4/F5, Ituna picked up her skirts and we were screaming along at 8.5 knots. We had soon past Dungeness power station – I am thinking of writing a book nuclear power stations we have passed ….Windscale, Sizewell etc…. But the wind soon died but at least stayed NW – well it did until about half way to the magnificent chalky cliffs of Beachy Head. We still had the tide with us, so at least we were making progress despite the wind now being dead on the nose. But then the tide turned…….and we were going depressing slowly - it is at this point we always start singing. We decided to press on and not go into Brighton – as tomorrow the wind would be even stronger in same direction – so we would go even slower! For a long way out Portsmouth’s Spinnaker Tower was visible, like a beacon, at times depressing because it was so far away – yet welcoming as it was our finish line. It stands just inside the entrance of the narrow harbour, and at 2 am when we passed it, it was swathed in purple light. We had very mixed emotions: elated that we had finished, yet tinged with sadness that our adventure was over. For me, there was also a touch of relief that we had arrived back safely – as Skipper you always are responsible for what every happens on board, and it was brought home by the mayday that we heard during the day. The body of a yachtsman had been found at sea, just south of where we were – no sign of the yacht. This has been for us, an amazing adventure, something that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. We have really appreciated that our web site has had so many followers – July saw 975 separate people reading it…..we didn’t know we knew so many people! We have met lots of new friends en route, been thoroughly spoilt on stopovers by family and friends, enjoyed reading the many mails that have you have sent – so a big thank you to you all.

Monday 21st Aug

The engineer diagnosed that the bearings on the water pump were shot and needed replacing. So then it was a race to get new bearings and it refitted in time to get the tide. Whilst we waited, huge cumulus nimbus clouds built up – these are the towering white clouds that ascend like stairs into to the skies – and associated with thunder. The engineer was a star and had the bearing fixed just in the nic of time. At which point, a huge gust came through, the heavens opened and it was hailing – in August! So we decided to be wimps and leave early the next morning.

Sunday 20th August

The original plan had been to arrive back in Gosport today – but strong SWs have kept us here. Every corner we turn so does the wind. Today is the anniversary of my Father’s death – 16 years ago – so I am feeling a little sad today. I wonder if he ever would have imagined that I would be doing this when he gave me my first sailing lesson in my mirror dinghy all those years ago. We are locked into a basin in Dover, and as we need to leave at dark o’clock tomorrow, we needed to move to the outside of the dock and also fill up with fuel. To our horror we discover we have a problem with the water cooling system on the engine – causing quite a serious leak when the engine is running. So we need to call the engineer in as it is beyond our skills – which means that we won’t be leaving early. The weather window closes at 6pm tuesday – so we are now up against it. We seem to be so close to the end – only 100 miles to go having done over 2000 – but they seem to be difficult to do.

Friday – Saturday 19th August

The centre of Dover is overlooked by the imposing castle and the white cliffs…but at £9.50 per adult, the castle will remain unexplored by us on this visit – more than 3 days food budget! It is a strange mixture Dover, clearly there has been money invested to improve the town centre – but it does suffer from too much concrete & 1960 buildings. Yet there are some beautiful old buildings - the outer harbour is edged by a magnificent crescent – worthy of a place in Bath – well half of it – the other half is a rather nasty 1960 tower block – how could planners allow that to happen. We decided that we need to start thinking (sadly) of our return soon – so we go off to the hairdressers – to start the transformation from salty sea dogs back to working bods.

Thursday 17th August

Whilst it was a peaceful anchorage, neither of us had a good nights sleep. I was mulling over weather forecast. Thundery showers…which can cause huge gusts of wind, hail and there is always the chance (albeit slight) of getting struck by lightening, rendering all electronic and electric items useless….meaning no engine and no means of knowing the distance travelled - the basic info for navigation. We decided to go, as thundery showers was the forecast for the next few days but at least today the wind was relatively light – albeit in the southerly direction we wanted to go in. The coasts of Essex and Suffolk are bounded by numerous sandbanks. 15 miles offshore, the sandbanks were awash at low tide though it did have the effect of concentrating the shipping traffic – so at least you know where they are going. Only yesterday we heard a mayday from a boat that had gone aground on a one. Despite the weather forecast, we had a glorious day and no rain – I even needed the suntan lotion. By about 2pm, the Kent coast was visible. The wind changed direction, our speed picked up as we could finally sail, hence we decided to press on to Dover instead of our planned destination of Ramsgate. We passed Goodwin sands but by now the tide was running at 2 knots against us, so progress slowed a little. We altered course, sailing close by to the famous white cliffs of Dover – it felt like we were turning the corner moving from the east coast of the UK to the south coast - a milestone. We had to carefully time entry into Dover Harbour, as ferries constantly stream in and out. Within the space of 10 mins, 2 ferries left and one came in – it felt as we were on a zimmer frame crossing the M25. We tied up at 8.30pm , tired but happy that we had travelled and made it to Dover

Wednesday 16th August

Lazed around, then left after lunch. Beautiful sunny day and we travelled a massive distance of 7 miles out of the river into Walton Backwaters – known by many Arthur Ransome fans as the location for Secret Water. The title gives you an indication of maze of little rivers and low lying islands barely visible from the sea. The entrance has a row of barges sunk to try and prevent the coastal erosion – which plaques this coast from Cromer all the way south. My geography lessons of long shore drift come to mind. We dropped the anchor in a tranquil spot…..just next to our friends from Fereale. Clear blue skies and a gentle lapping of the water on the hull – a peaceful evening. Well apart from the fact that I have forgotten to renew our boat insurance and it ran out today….quick phone call home and my mother is going to phone them tomorrow and renew it.

Tuesday 15th August

We topped up with fuel, before heading on down the picturesque (not) river. It was sunny and we past a great crested grebe – a sign that we were only 1 lock away from the Broads. Out through the bridge at 09:45 – there was a welcome face on the bridge (my mother) waving good bye. Despite the lack of waves, there was a bit of a swell, so we were bouncing around a bit and our last few days luxury didn’t do a lot for Mags sea legs. So she went below to sleep for a bit and felt much better afterwards. The gentle wind pushed us on our way south, past Southwold and Walberswick places I had known in my childhood – great beaches. The sea was brown as we had been expecting ever since entering the North Sea – but it is only when amongst the sandbanks does it actually turn brown. We dodge the sandbanks enroute and we steamed along thanks to the tide …over 8 knots (fast for us) and we were soon taking down the sails and entering the River Orwell, past the Felixstowe Container port with massive ships (mainly Chinese) with what looked to be very overloaded ships –we estimated each ship had 2500 containers. We meandered up the Orwell and picked up a buoy at Pin Mill, famous for Thames Barges and the Butt and Oyster Pub.

Wednesday 9th – Monday 14th August

We have had an extended stay here initially due to waiting for the electronic instruments to be mended but then due to a series of complex lows….and everyone here was complaining of a heat wave the week before…. if only, as it seems to have rained continuously. The extended stay has meant the luxury of baths and being looked after very well my mother. It also gave us the chance to see friends: Bill and Edna then Gordon and Caroline who were over from Australia. Our neighbours Irene and Gordon ( Fereale) have also been stuck here, and we have been visiting each others boats for tea and coffee for the week. Irene very kindly made us a present - a very innovative use of a coat hanger and clothes pegs – roll on next washing day! Had a very enjoyable evening – had Irene, Gordon and my mother over for Dinner on the boat – as we will go tomorrow (finally)

Tuesday 8th Aug

Visited the boat with the Campbell Clan – then said goodbye as they headed off to Eccosse. Visited Southwood for some excellent fish and chips – managed to leave the camera there and only discover it once we got back home. Thankfully it was still there

Monday 7th Aug

Scrubbed the boat and did some more route planning. Electronics doctor came to see if he could give the instruments a kiss of life but it was declared dead on arrival….have now ordered a new one (ouchhh). Sandy (Mags’ brother), Corinne, Marie and Paul arrived. It was great to see them – and we really appreciated the massive detour they made en route to Scotland, to see us.

Saturday & Sunday 5th & 6thAugust

During a storm, a little community forms as all the boats are cooped up in the harbour and then the storm passes and everyone moves on and a new set of yachts enter and a new community forms. And so it was that our little community circled in the harbour waiting for the first bridge opening, which was 9:30. Once the bridge opened, we were all went our separate ways. One of the advantages of staying an extra day was that the sea had another day to calm down but sadly there was not enough wind to sail. We hugged the rugged Yorkshire coast, passing through the forest of pots (all well marked) and close to the beautiful Robin Hoods’ Bay. Our last point of contact on this part of the coast was Flamborough Head, a dramatic chalk cliff, home to Britain’s largest puffin colony and I can’t help feeling this will be the last time we see these comical little birds that have kept us amused since Milford Haven. As the sun set, we were crossing the Humber – a very busy shipping area and the first of several gas platforms. We started our watch system – and spent the night dodging ships. A beautiful sunrise saw us closing with the north Norfolk coast at Cromer, and we sped along ‘til the tide changed. We then made very slow progress past Yarmouth and the wind farm on Scroby sands. By 2pm, we were passing our most easterly point, Lowestoft, and entered the harbour there 29 hours after we left Whitby. Thought about Daddy a lot on this leg – particularly entering Lowestoft, a harbour he entered many times on the research vessels. We had a quick stop on the waiting pontoon before going under the bridge where we spotted mummy on the bridge. In a mini flotilla we proceeded up the river to the marina - sadly the river looks very dilapidated and unloved, while in many towns the waterfront has been developed into a desirable location. Moored next to Gordon and Irene (Fereale). Two very tired teddies were scooped up by Mummy, taken back – and felt much better after a bath!

Friday 4th August

We were due to sail today and cast off ready for the 13:30 bridge. We left at the same time as Fereale and were looking forward to cruising in company with them down to Lowestoft. But before going under the bridge noticed that one of the instruments were not working. So tied up again – but failed to mend it. Worked out a work around. I think water has got into it after the considerable battering they would have got in the storm.

Thursday 3rd August

As a result of the torrential rain that fell last night on the moors that feed the river, it has turned the colour of stewed tea. The wind slowly abates and by lunchtime we venture out along the sea wall. The waves are impressive and as the wind is from the north it renders the entrance treacherous. Decide to explore the south part of Whitby, which is made up of a network of narrow streets –very atmospheric, you can just imagine what it would have been like when James Cook was learning his trade here. All his ships were built in Whitby. Climbed up the steps to St Mary’s Church is precariously balanced at the top of the cliff, is feels like it is clinging on – even inside you get the feeling that is slipping done the hill. In the evening went out for a drink with Tony, Ann, Claire and Steve.

Wednesday 2nd August

Woke up to no electricity – too many people trying to use the same electricity post on the pontoon. Mags then bought the bits to make a splitter plug and is now feeling very pleased with herself, as it worked. So hairdryer and electric kettle back in circulation – crisis averted. Today has been VERY wet and wind – not left the boat today and even had to put the heating on. Went onboard Fereale, Gordon and Irene lovely boat – really enjoyable evening. Irene gave me her log of their trip to Russia and circumnavigation of Scandinavia to read – fascinating story and journey. Back on the boat, we sit and listen to the squeaking of the fenders, the stretching of the ropes as the gale howls round the boat. Birling bertie ( our wind generator) is about to take off , so at 2am we get up to tame him and the gale 8 is in full force.

Tuesday 1st August

Apparently this is Yorkshire day today…all the more reason to be here. We needed fuel and the refuelling point was the other side of the bridge, which only opens 2 hours either side of HW. So requested permission and at 9am we sped through. At the fuelling point which is on the fish quay, we bought 2 lobsters £3 each from a local fisherman – what a bargain. Back through the bridge, we tied up and decided to treat ourselves to a full English breakfast…delicious. We weren’t going anywhere today due to the weather and the ominous black clouds that had been building all morning decided to make their presence felt - and the heavens opened. Thunder and lighting following on in quick succession – it was raining so hard that the drops were bouncing off the water. Lightening is always a worry in a boat with a big metal object ( mast ) sticking up into the sky. Invited Irena and Gordon ( another Campbell) onto the boat for drinks. They have been living on their boat for 10 years now and have it well sorted – even have a neat little washing machine!